How To Putty Drywall? How To Apply The Putty With Your Own Hands, Step By Step Instructions

2024 Author: Beatrice Philips | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-18 12:09

With the help of drywall, you can not only hide the unevenness of the walls or ceiling, but also implement a huge number of design ideas, for example, make various cascades and arches, thereby diversifying the design of the room.

Many inexperienced builders believe that plasterboard surfaces do not need putty. However, this is a huge misconception. Drywall, although it seems quite even and smooth to the naked eye, in fact has many microcracks and irregularities. The usual putty will help to fix them.

Peculiarities

Putty will help to get rid of various defects on drywall. It will not only smooth out irregularities, but also ensure the safety of drywall sheets. For example, when you remove wallpaper from a previously plastered plasterboard wall, the drywall itself will remain intact and suitable for applying another solution or material.

Also, putting putty on walls or ceilings before painting can significantly reduce paint costs.

When further painting walls or ceilings made of plasterboard, a complete (in two stages: starting and finishing) surface putty is required, since the paint will accentuate any irregularities or surface defects, both in daylight and in artificial light. If you plan to finish the wall with dense wallpaper or tiles, you can do with one layer putty (using a starting putty). However, the masters still advise to putty the walls in at least two stages, as this will be a more reliable and neat option.

For thick wallpaper, it is better to choose a putty with a coarse-grained structure . After drying, no wall defects will be visible under them, so you can only do with a starting putty. But under thin paper wallpaper, it is imperative to use both starting and finishing putty, since if you do with one layer, after the wallpaper dries, all irregularities and surface defects will become visible.

Types of putties

In modern stores of building materials, a huge assortment of various putty mixtures is presented: both designed for a specific type of wall, and universal. To make your choice, you need to know how this or that mixture differs from others.

Types of putties are distinguished by the following characteristics:

• on readiness for use;
• by appointment;
• by composition;
• by area of application.

On readiness for use

• Dry putties - the dry composition must be diluted with water to obtain a homogeneous solution. Dry putty has many advantages: low cost compared to ready-made solutions, long shelf life, the ability to finish the surface in stages.
• Ready-to-use fillers or liquid - already prepared solution that can be immediately applied to the surface. The ready-to-use putty is convenient in that you do not need to worry about the correct consistency of the solution. Skipping the mixing step not only simplifies the work, but also saves time. However, it is not as durable as dry putty mixture and requires special storage conditions.

By appointment

The gypsum plasterboard surface needs preliminary leveling, and the main purpose of the putty is to level and eliminate microcracks and surface joints. For different types of work, there are different types of putty:

Starting (leveling) putty - designed to eliminate deep defects, has a coarse-grained structure, is the initial stage of surface putty. When working with thick, thick wallpaper or tiles, the starter putty can be used as a single layer.

Finishing putty - it is used to mask the defects remaining after the starting putty, has a soft homogeneous structure, gives the surface an almost finished look. When working with paint or thin paper wallpaper, finishing putty is a must. It will smooth out the unevenness of the starting putty, and the coating will look much neater.

• Universal putty - combines all the best properties of the first two, can be used at any stage of surface finishing, but it has a rather high price. However, experienced builders advise against using only a universal putty. It is convenient to use it as a finishing layer.
• Decorative textured putty - used as a finished decorative coating. With the help of mineral crumbs as part of the textured putty, you can create any volumetric textures and diversify the design of the room. Designer putty acts as a final surface finish and does not require additional painting.

By composition

Gypsum - have many positive properties, such as fast shrinkage on the surface, environmental friendliness, fast drying and ease of leveling. The main disadvantage of gypsum putty is poor resistance to moisture, since gypsum absorbs a lot of moisture. Therefore, plaster putty should not be used when decorating a bathroom or kitchen.

Cement - durable and robust, they tolerate high temperatures well, are resistant to moisture, therefore, they are perfect for decorating bathrooms and kitchens. The main disadvantage is the long drying time and uneven application. Also, cement putty can give a slight shrinkage, so it is better not to use it in living rooms.

Polymer - a universal type of putty, suitable for both residential and industrial premises. They have high environmental friendliness and water resistance, smooth uniform coating, fast drying, reliability, fast shrinkage. Polymer putty is sold immediately ready-made, so you don't have to worry about mixing the solution of the correct consistency. The only drawback is the high cost.

Polymer putty can be latex and acrylic. For work indoors, you should give preference to latex. Even when applied in a thin layer, unlike acrylic putty, it will retain all its useful properties: high strength and good adhesion to any materials. Alternatively, it is possible to purchase a colored latex putty, which can save paint costs in the future. But if you freeze the latex putty during storage, it will become unusable. Therefore, when buying, you should be careful about the storage conditions and shelf life of the solution.

Acrylic putty is perfect for exterior finishing, as it is resistant to temperature extremes and moisture.

By area of application

• For outdoor work - must have good moisture resistance, thermal insulation, resistance to temperature extremes and mechanical stress.
• For interior work - must meet the requirements of the room in which the finishing is planned, have good adhesion with materials for further finishing and do not contain substances harmful to human health.

When choosing a putty, it is worth considering the conditions and place of work. In living quarters (especially in children's rooms and bedrooms), special attention should be paid to the composition of the putty. It must not contain substances that may be hazardous to health. In rooms with high humidity (kitchens and bathrooms), you should pay attention to putty mixtures that can withstand high temperatures and high humidity.

You also need to pay attention to the hardening time of the putty. This criterion will help save time finishing the premises. However, for inexperienced builders, it is best not to choose a putty that dries too quickly. Due to inexperience, the leveling process will take longer than that of an experienced master, and the putty should not dry out prematurely.

Tools

To putty drywall, you will need the following tools:

• Spatula 15-25 cm wide (for basic work).
• Spatula 30-40 cm wide (for leveling).
• Spatula with teeth 3 × 3 mm (for reinforcing joints).
• Putty.
• Primer (for good adhesion of drywall to the finishing material).
• Soft roller (for applying primer).

• Various containers or baths (for diluting putty, primer and washing tools).
• Reinforcing tape - serpyanka (superimposed on the joint line between drywall sheets).
• Perforator or drill with a special attachment (for mixing putty).
• Grater with clamps.
• Grater mesh with clips.
• Screws.

A stepladder may be needed to putty ceilings or high walls.

Surface preparation

Plasterboard sheets have a fairly smooth surface, but this does not negate the fact that the surface must be prepared before final finishing.

Before applying the putty, you must also apply a primer to the drywall surface . It provides better bonding of materials (adhesion), since, being absorbed into the base, it creates a protective film that does not allow the moisture of the applied materials to penetrate onto the surface of the drywall. The primer will ensure uniform drying of the putty without the formation of microcracks.

For priming, you can purchase a universal soil solution that will work on all surfaces, including brick and concrete. But a smarter solution would be to use a primer specifically designed for priming drywall surfaces.

It is important to know that in no case should you use soil mixtures or solutions containing alkyds for finishing drywall coatings, since the paper layer will come off and the whole structure will become unusable.

The primer must be applied to a clean, dry surface. Fine dust can be removed with a construction vacuum cleaner, a soft brush or a slightly damp cloth (it should not be too wet).

The primer can be applied with a roller, brush or spray, depending on the scope of work. The brush is usually used in hard-to-reach areas and for finishing seams. Basically, a roller is used for priming. The roller should be on a long handle with a microfiber coat, as it absorbs moisture well and will not allow the solution to spread. A soft roller will also work. The primer is applied with a roller from top to bottom. It is important not to allow primer smudges, since after the soil layer has dried, the putty in these places will lie down and dry unevenly.

As soon as the soil starts to leak, it must be immediately spread over the surface.

When choosing a primer, you should pay great attention to the content of antibacterial substances. They will prevent the growth of mold and mildew. This is especially important to consider when choosing a soil for bathrooms, kitchens and rooms where humidity can be increased.

Usually, the primer is applied in one layer, but in bathrooms and kitchens, when priming drywall, it is better to apply in two. One layer usually dries 4-6 hours.

How to prepare the solution?

To begin with, it is important to know that the putty hardens quickly enough, so the volume of the mixed solution should be calculated for about the next 20 - 30 minutes of work.

Under no circumstances should you pour / pour the rest of the solution / mixture that was used back into the jar! This will lead to the setting process of the solution, and all the putty will become unusable. It is better to regularly knead the "fresh" solution than to throw away the filler all the time, because it has started to set.

The solution should be mixed in the same container from which the work will then be done.

Step-by-step plan for the preparation of the solution:

1. In an absolutely clean container (bath), you need to dial the amount of water required in the instructions (do not forget that you need to calculate the amount of water and mixture only for the next 20-30 minutes of work). The water should be clean and at room temperature.
2. The dry mixture must be evenly poured onto the surface of the water. Ideally, the powder should immediately be saturated with water and settle to the bottom of the tub.
3. For a good consistency of the putty, the mixture that has accumulated water should be approximately equal to the water level.
4. Using a spatula, gently mix the solution. Much attention should be paid to the corners at the bottom of the container (tray) - the mixture may remain there, and the putty will be of poor quality.

As a result, you should get a solution of a homogeneous consistency without lumps. Lumps need to be rubbed against the walls of the container and mixed with the rest of the mixture.

The finished putty solution should be thick and resemble thick sour cream. To make sure that the solution is the correct consistency, just scoop it up with a spatula and turn it over. The solution of the correct consistency should stick to the paddle, slowly "sliding", but not draining from it in any way.

Application technology

After everything you need has been prepared (tools, surface and mortar), you can start applying the putty. For ease of use, you need step-by-step instructions.

The first step is to start reinforcing the seam. This is a necessary procedure, as the reinforcing tape will help to strengthen the seam and prevent the drywall sheets from spreading, as well as prevent cracks.

Reinforcing tapes are different in material quality and in the presence (or absence) of an adhesive base. In this case, it will be most convenient to use a serpyanka with an adhesive side, designed specifically for drywall. But do not forget that putty is the main fixing solution.

It is important to know that you cannot use PVA glue to stick the reinforcing tape. This glue is water-based and, if it gets on the caps of the self-tapping screws, will eventually cause the appearance of rust, which will appear on the final finish with yellow spots.

There will definitely be a gap between the sheets of drywall. Regardless of the width, it must be tightly filled with a putty solution using a narrow spatula. The putty must be applied in large quantities in order to fill the seam tightly.

The bath should be placed from below so that the excess putty falls not on the floor, but into the container.

When the seams are tightly sealed, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess "influx" of putty from the surface, since when it dries, it can greatly complicate the implementation of the next stages of the putty. This can be done with the same spatula. With excess putty, you can immediately close up the grooves from the self-tapping screws that are nearby. This is done crosswise. The surplus also needs to be removed. Next, you need to wait until the putty grabs and hardens. During this time, you can do the same work with all other seams.

When the putty on the seam hardens and gains the required strength, you can start reinforcing. We prepare the required amount of putty solution and cut off the required length of the tape. It is recommended to use a trowel with 3 x 3 mm notches to distribute the filler evenly.

First, using an ordinary spatula, apply a layer of putty along the entire length of the seam, then level it with a spatula with teeth. The notched trowel will create even strips of putty with the correct amount of mortar to set the tape.

Serpyanka must be bent along the crease (line for folding in the center of the tape) and with the protruding side applied to the surface with putty. It is important that the protruding side of the tape fits exactly into the joint of the sheets. Then press down a little with your fingers: first in the center, then along the edges.

Then, on a wide spatula, you need to apply a little more putty (in this case, the putty is a "lubricant" so that the spatula glides easily on the tape) and walk along the length of the serpyanka. The tape should "sink" in the putty, that is, there should be no air space under the tape. So it will one hundred percent fulfill its function.

To prevent the tape from deforming and shifting, you need to hold it higher with another spatula.

After all these actions, another layer of putty must be applied to the tape. In order for the solution to fill the entire space, it is necessary to apply it perpendicular to the seam. Then you need to level the layer of putty. For this, it is better to use a wider spatula. After that, making sure that the serpyanka does not wrinkle anywhere and does not protrude, it is necessary to carry out the final alignment. For the final alignment on the spatula, you need to apply a little mortar and, be sure to pick up excess mortar from the surface, walk it along the seam "on the slicker". In this state, the seam is left to dry completely. After the putty hardens, you get a solid monolithic structure that can withstand loads.

For fillet welds, there are special “fillet” reinforcement tapes that simplify the process of reinforcing fillet welds.

The seam must be checked the next day. The putty may shrink slightly. To eliminate possible irregularities, you need to re-collect a little putty on the putty knife and walk the tool "on the sdir" along the entire seam line.

After all the seams have been reinforced, you can proceed to the final stage - puttying the entire surface. Many neglect this point, however, experienced craftsmen advise nevertheless to putty the surface completely so that after painting the surface is free of minor defects.

Continuous puttying is carried out in two steps to ensure the best possible surface quality.

To begin with, the solution is mixed into a bath or other convenient container. For application and leveling, you will need two spatulas: narrow (15 - 25 cm) and wide (30 - 40 cm). Use a narrow spatula to collect the solution from the container, apply it to the surface and remove excess putty from a wide spatula, and with a wide spatula, distribute and level the putty over the entire surface.

So, the first step is to apply a fairly large amount of the mortar to a narrow trowel and then to the surface. Spread it quickly and evenly over the surface with a wide spatula. It is necessary to smooth the putty by applying force, "on the sdir". As a result, a thin, even layer should remain. When smoothing the putty, it is necessary to immediately remove its excess on a wide spatula with a narrow spatula. You should not try to immediately cover a large surface area - a thin layer of mortar quickly sets, and you still need to have time to level and smooth it.

It is recommended to work in squares no more than 0.5 square meters.

Care must be taken to ensure that no spatula marks remain on the surface. When they appear, it is worth immediately smoothing out the irregularities.

A small step may form near an already reinforced seam . To get rid of it, you need to lead the spatula in the direction of the seam, and then very carefully walk along it "on the sdir".

The corners need to be given special attention. After distributing and smoothing the filler, excess filler may form in the corners, which goes beyond the vertex of the corner. They must be removed.

The selected, putty surface area is left to dry.

When the grout dries, the surface will become striped. This is due to the fact that drywall sheets have irregularities invisible to the naked eye, and more putty has penetrated into deeper areas. Do not worry - after applying the second layer of putty, the surface will become absolutely flat and monochromatic.

The second layer is done in the same way.

When the second layer of putty is dry, all that remains is to sand the surface. You can use a clamped grater for this. This is a very dusty job, so be sure to wear a respirator. Grinding is usually done in a counterclockwise circular motion. The inner corners should be sanded very carefully, as you can touch the adjacent walls and there will be traces of the grater on them.

Periodically you need to sweep away the settled dust . A soft bristled brush is suitable for this.

The final stage of do-it-yourself puttying consists in re-priming the surface. It is necessary to apply the primer very carefully, in a thin layer, avoiding drips. The primer will help to achieve high adhesion with the next solution or material to be applied to the surface. Styling must be done step by step.

It is imperative to prime the material to make the filling more effective. Non-woven can be applied to the gypsum plasterboard, gently walking under the corner. The box must be completely covered with it.

Useful Tips

You can easily putty drywall, following the advice of experts:

When choosing a putty, pay attention to which room you need to finish in. If it is a nursery or a bedroom, then you should spare no money by choosing an environmentally friendly and safe putty. If it is a kitchen or a bathroom, you should pay attention to the putty, which can withstand high humidity and high temperatures

• Antibacterial substances in the soil or putty prevent the appearance of mold and mildew;
• The putty hardens quickly, so you need to calculate the amount of solution for 20 - 30 minutes of work;
• With excess putty, you can immediately close up the holes from the screws;
• Small holes (for example, holes from self-tapping screws) are putty in a crosswise motion;
• It is better for an inexperienced builder not to take a putty that dries out too quickly, since, due to inexperience, the application and smoothing process will take longer than that of an experienced master;

• To ensure better adhesion between the starting and finishing putty, it is better to use solutions / mixtures from the same manufacturer;
• For finishing drywall coatings, in no case should you use soil mixtures containing alkyds, since the paper layer will come off the drywall sheet, and the whole structure will become unusable;

• When reinforcing the seams between drywall sheets, PVA glue cannot be used, since it has a water base and, if it gets on the screws, will cause rust, which will eventually appear on the finished finish in the form of yellow spots;
• When mixing the putty solution, be sure to use clean containers and clean water at room temperature. This is especially important before wallpapering.