Installation Of Metal Siding (43 Photos): Do-it-yourself Step-by-step Instructions For Sheathing, How To Properly Attach A Product Under A Log

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Video: Installation Of Metal Siding (43 Photos): Do-it-yourself Step-by-step Instructions For Sheathing, How To Properly Attach A Product Under A Log

Video: Installation Of Metal Siding (43 Photos): Do-it-yourself Step-by-step Instructions For Sheathing, How To Properly Attach A Product Under A Log
Video: How to Build a Garage #6 Metal Siding 2024, May
Installation Of Metal Siding (43 Photos): Do-it-yourself Step-by-step Instructions For Sheathing, How To Properly Attach A Product Under A Log
Installation Of Metal Siding (43 Photos): Do-it-yourself Step-by-step Instructions For Sheathing, How To Properly Attach A Product Under A Log
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Among the many finishing methods, it is siding that plays a large role. But this material is not always strong enough, the only exception is the metal version of the coating. It has several types of execution and must be mounted strictly according to a special technology that deserves a special review.

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The use of metal siding is designed not only to protect the facade from the destructive effects of the environment, but also to provide a pleasant appearance to the surface. Covering with siding allows the dwelling to stand for at least fifty years, and in the process of working with it, it is necessary to use not only strips, but also additional elements.

Rolled designs should be chosen as they are mechanically stiffer and less hazardous in terms of injury.

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" Ship board " it is named so for a reason, because its appearance is similar to the material used for the skin of wooden ships. Experts believe that the advantage of this design is simple installation and ease of subsequent operation. The panels resist the effects of fire well and are environmentally friendly; they are up to 6 m long. The initial layer is a lightweight vertical type frame.

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" Block house " outwardly resembles high-quality logs, and not only the color and shape, but also the texture of the natural material are reproduced. Unlike a natural log house, there is no need to treat the material with antiseptics or paint. Installation over the lathing makes it possible to additionally insulate the structure; the structure is light and the load on the wall, as well as the foundation, is relatively small. Installation is possible in any season of the year.

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" Eurobrus " is a metal analogue of a profiled bar and far surpasses it in terms of fire safety. You can put this type of blocks both vertically and horizontally. Tailor-made production saves money by eliminating cutting, trimming and wasteful disposal of cut pieces.

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Option "Crown " it stands out for its increased mechanical strength and excellent resistance to fire. It allows you to correct any defects in structures, and even when the weather constantly tests the surface of the house for strength, the appearance remains very well.

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Calculation features

The most important feature of calculating the need for metal siding is its great complexity. It is almost always worth contacting a specialist, since any measurements and calculations using an online calculator are not reliable enough.

Most accurately, the working area can be measured only after the crate has been laid - it is then that the length and height of the walls are calculated.

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Required materials and tools

Components for the installation of metal siding must be in full by the beginning of work. It is possible to replace the screws with nails, but steel options will not work - only galvanized ones. The need to buy self-tapping screws with gaskets arises only when the sheets are fastened through and through. Then the rubber will not allow water to penetrate into the place of the cut, and even more so to seep into the depths.

It is recommended that fasteners match the tone of the base material so that they are fully matched and form an attractive look.

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To paint a profile for a log or in another desired look, not all types of paints are useful . The best solution is to purchase the decorative composition directly with the siding. In most cases, repair paint is sold in containers of 100, 200 and 1000 g - it is designed to paint small scratches or close cut points. To apply such a composition, you need a match; you can replace it with a cotton swab. A special dye is applied to the galvanized layer, and in addition it perfectly resists ultraviolet rays; the guides are set in increments of 0.4 m, so it is quite simple to calculate the required number of them.

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Installation technology

Cutting metal siding to the exact size should be done immediately at the time of purchase. Despite its resistance to weathering, it is better to store this material under a canopy, and ideally in a dry, well-ventilated area. It is forbidden to place even small and light objects on the sheets to avoid damage. You should carefully check how smooth the surface for connecting the blocks is.

It is unacceptable to mount sheets and panels all the way, because then even a generally insignificant thermal expansion can deliver unpleasant surprises.

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Step-by-step mounting instructions

Training

Work should start with cutting the material: strips and single sheets. It is very important not to make mistakes at this stage, because then it will be possible to apply siding more economically and do the job properly. The film is supposed to be removed from the metal before starting the installation. If it is exposed to ultraviolet light, then removing the coating will be very difficult. When working, you will need scissors or a saw to cut metal parts.

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You cannot cut siding sheets with a grinder - the protective coating can be easily deformed and accelerated corrosion can be provoked. With the help of a punch, it is easy to make additional holes for fasteners. Using a punch, holes can be punched out by bending the metal after it has been cut. A screwdriver is used to attach the strips to self-tapping screws, and when using nails, you will need a hammer.

The need for a rivet gun only arises when rivets are inserted into simple outer corners.

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It is also necessary to use drill bits to screw in self-tapping screws with a seal. It is not very rational to use staples, as experts consider them insufficiently reliable. For taking measurements, tape measures with fabric stripes are preferable, since the metal tape can accidentally scratch the measured panel - rust may appear very soon, and the generally strong material will lose its qualities. It is advisable to use long levels or laser instruments - they are more expensive, but more convenient to use.

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For the same reason as with a tape measure, metal squares are inferior to plastic and wood options. Workers' own safety is ensured with protective goggles and gloves, because unprotected hands are very easy to damage with tools, sharp edges of metal and other dangerous objects.

The processing order is as follows:

  • starting strips;
  • especially difficult corners located inside or outside, complicated connector strips;
  • ordinary stripes;
  • simple corners and connector;
  • soffit.

Both metal and vinyl siding are placed on the wall starting from the bottom links and gradually working upward.

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Lathing

A subsystem such as a crate is designed to provide the strength of the base for the front cover. In the space between the profiles, materials are often laid to protect against moisture ingress and heat escape. The lathing is made of wood and metal, both types differ in their strengths and weaknesses. Since hiring specialists is quite expensive, it is better to study the problem thoroughly and do the work yourself. Wood is environmentally friendly and makes it easy to install metal strips on top, but it is not durable enough, so the investment will be quickly lost.

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It is advisable to take a timber 5x5 cm in size, and the moisture content of the tree is necessarily assessed - it should not exceed 14%. Before starting work, responsible owners or experienced builders always process natural material with fire retardants and antiseptics. The metal frame is created either on gypsum plasterboard profiles, or on ventilated purlins that facilitate the passage of air inside. The definition of the gap is based on the specifics of the construction and the type of siding: usually it is 30 cm, and only in isolated situations it is required to increase the gap to 0.5 m.

The lathing slats are placed on the lower and upper edges of the house, at the corners and at the joints of the walls . When installing siding vertically, the fastening step rushes horizontally. Where there are openings for doors and windows, the slats should be mounted one to the other so that the installation is correct and perfectly accurate.

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Vapor barrier and waterproofing

Pieces of thermal insulation materials are placed in the gaps between profile parts or wooden planks. Fiberglass is placed above them in the form of a film, due to which water will come out, but not get inside the insulation. The vapor barrier layer is attached to the wooden frame with a stapler, and glued to the profile. In both cases, the joints are covered with tape. When working, carefully monitor that the insulating vapor film does not stretch excessively and does not sag even slightly; only after the completion of the insulation work, the technology allows the installation of the face material to begin.

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Assembly

They begin to collect the outer layer of siding, determining as accurately as possible the place where the original strip should be fixed. Look for this place by setting the lowest point of the house in relation to the horizon line. At the construction level, a straight line is made 3-4 cm above such a point - this will be the line for the lower edge of the first strip. Fastening the siding over the basement of the building is possible only if the drain bars are used. Such designs are made to order, and the preparation of the sketch and the establishment of the exact dimensions depend on the customer himself.

Docking can be done without a gap between the planks, back to back . The rate of thermal expansion of metal is significantly less than even the best options for plastic and vinyl. The only clearances that are made are required for greater comfort of the workers, so that they do not scratch the metal during installation and do not get injured themselves. They start working with complex additional elements only after fixing the original bar. It is recommended to mount screws or nails with a gap of 20-30 cm.

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The convergence of fasteners is due to the fact that parts of complex design are less attached and more capricious. Only this technique allows you to avoid their sudden exit from the wall and violation of the integrity of the siding in general. It is recommended to find out in advance what the size of the corner in the products of a certain manufacturer is - this will allow the units to be installed correctly to be joined.

It is advisable to use simple angles because they:

  • relatively cheap;
  • easy to do with your own hands;
  • they are replaced without unnecessary problems when the need arises.
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At this stage of work, it is also necessary to sheathe openings for doors and windows using slope strips or a combination of a casing with an ebb strip. The width of the structure is selected taking into account the depth of the grooves and how large the sheathing is. Casting parts are placed at the bottom of the windows. It makes sense to assemble the composition in such a way that all the planks in various doors and windows are at the same level, then the appearance of the facade will become symmetrical and quite beautiful. Fastening of ordinary strips is done in the same way as in the case of vinyl panels: each next block in height is pushed onto the previous one until the lock clicks.

To connect the strips, experts recommend using complex H-bonds or simplified strip strips . But it is quite possible to abandon these two elements when cladding and overlap the stripes. Cutting the lock from one side of the siding block helps to increase the stability of the connection. Wood finishing implies the use of only blocks with oval technological holes. Before the start of work, the wood is processed with all caulkers, as possible, because there will no longer be such a chance.

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Experts recommend using disc dowels as fasteners. It is necessary to cut metal siding with an electric jigsaw strictly on a flat, solid plane - only this condition will help to avoid deformation. It is best to set the control knob to the first position at minimum speed. A metal saw should be used with extreme caution, without making any sudden movements. It is advisable to make sure that nothing and no one distracts in the process of work.

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Observing these simple rules, you can choose the most suitable type of metal siding and correctly apply it, making an elegant facade for your home in the shortest possible time.

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