Warm Corners From A Bar: Connecting A Bar 150x150 And Other Sizes According To A Stencil, Washed Down A Profiled Bar And Assembling The Corner With Your Own Hands

2024 Author: Beatrice Philips | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-18 12:09

The quality of a wooden house depends on how well it is assembled. The more airtight the house is assembled from a bar, the longer the heat will remain in it. When assembling log houses, the warm angle technology is used to avoid the formation of cracks and cracks.

The most common places where heat goes in wooden houses are corners. To create a sealed connection of the timber, a special assembly technology is used, which ensures a tight joining of the crowns. Those who are going to lay a house from a bar on their own should study different types of assembling a warm corner in order to build a solid and warm wooden house.

Description

A warm corner from a bar is a special technology for connecting logs using spikes and grooves in a certain way . Only if this technology is observed, it is possible to avoid the appearance of "cold bridges" through which heat will leave the house, and dampness will form on the wood.

To assemble a warm corner, use special equipment filing the ends of the timber, which then fit tightly to each other when laying the crowns. To create a good sealing of a wooden house, a number of important rules must be observed:

• take into account the ratio of the total mass of the log house and the roof;
• the influence of external factors in the form of exposure to moisture, wind, temperature changes;
• the moisture level of the timber, which should not exceed 20%;
• the time required for the shrinkage of the log house;
• correctly fit all recesses and protrusions so that no gaps are formed between them.

After assembling the crowns, you can carry out additional insulation of the corner with natural hygroscopic materials:

• tow;
• jute;
• moss;
• flax;
• woolen felt.

Correct assembly of a warm corner provides a number of advantages to a wooden house:

• the frame will become so strong that it will not be afraid of ground movements, earthquakes and other external loads;
• you can do without using additional insulation and save on construction;
• mold and fungi will not form, pests will not appear;
• the cost of fasteners is reduced - they are simply not needed.

The assembly is carried out in different ways, which have their own characteristics and methods of cutting the joints of the timber. Correct use of this technology allows you to build a solid and sealed house, in which drafts and dampness will not "walk".

Well-dried timber with a properly created warm coal is less susceptible to deformation and is more economical in operation.

Varieties of connections

Each of the connection methods has its own mechanism and can be performed in several versions: with and without a remainder. Consider their types:

"Bowl"

"In the paw"

using rectangular veneer

"dovetail"

"Bastard"

using an end joint

The simplest is the one-sided locking system for joining the timber . With this method of connection, a transverse cut is made on the profiled wood from above. The groove is made in the form of a square or rectangle. Sometimes it can be used to secure the pins.

A two-way connection is considered more complex. It is sawn through at the top and bottom by ¼ of the timber thickness. Such a connection makes the frame more durable and completely avoids displacement. Such a connection of a warm corner is used only on a bar without defects and knots.

The most sealed and strongest is the four-sided connection, which is not used so often due to the fact that more complex preparation of the timber is required before assembly.

The most economical and simpler connection is without residue, in which the excess timber will not protrude from the wall. The disadvantage of such a compound is its lower strength compared to the compound with the remainder. Several types of such a connection are used.

• Half a tree when joining beams cut 50% from different sides … With such a warm angle, the timber is reinforced with dowels after laying.
• "In the paw", when the saw cut is made using a more complex technology, and the angle is more durable.
• Dowels that are only used on hardwoods . The dowels function as inserts in the grooves. Thus, the side and the end of the timber are fastened together. Swallow-shaped dowels are considered the most durable, but only professionals can make them.
• Butt when you do not need to saw the timber … In this case, the ends of the profiled logs are fastened with staples, clamps, angles. When using this assembly technology, additional insulation of the created joints is required.
• With a thorn when up to five studs and grooves can be used. During assembly, jute or tow made of natural hygroscopic materials is immediately placed in the grooves.

Straight and longitudinal connections are considered more time consuming. In this case, complex types of fastening are used that require special training of builders. Oblique locks are used very rarely when creating a joint, since this technology is very expensive.

How to do it yourself?

When assembling from a ready-made profiled beam of 150x150 or 100x150 mm, it is easy to make a warm corner with your own hands . If the timber is without locking recesses, you will have to make the correct cut of the required size according to the template. If cutting is done for the first time with your own hands, it is done according to a stencil or template so that the dimensions of the grooves are the same.

Those who do not know how to work with an ax will have to saw down the grooves, guided by the drawings. Before starting work, you should master the technology of connecting the timber "groove to groove" in the crowns. Before laying, you need to do a little preparation by checking the fasteners and joints. The blanks from which dowels and pins will be made are treated with an antiseptic and dried.

For the first three crowns, the most even timber is used without knots and other defects, with a geometry that is ideal for a strip foundation.

For aspiring carpenters, it's best to use the easiest way to create a warm corner, without the need to cut out grooves and tenons.

In this case, the beam rests with its butt against the side surface of another log. In corner joints, metal brackets or studs help, which must be coated with linseed oil before use.

The lock connection will be more reliable when a spike is inserted into the groove. In this case, the laying is more durable and airtight. Before that, using templates, grooves and spikes are created at the ends of the timber, with which the crowns are then tied in the corners. To make the seam more airtight, you need to knit using insulation, laying it between the logs. In this case, the groove must fully correspond to the spike so that the masonry, for example, 18x180 mm, is airtight.

First you need to make a wooden template, with the help of which the markings are then carried out at the ends of the profiled logs to perform the saw. On each beam, a groove and a spike are cut out according to the created stencils. When laying the timber, a drawing should be used, which will indicate the alternation of the castle segments. Therefore, you need to draw a diagram in which the following will be indicated:

• ordinal numbers of the crown;
• the type of connection used at the ends;
• the position of the openings in the assembled wall.

Alternating saws along the crowns

To increase the strength and density of the connecting segments, use round pins made of wood. Lay joints with the lock, alternating even logs with a spike, and odd ones with a groove.

The first gusset is made with a half-tree root spike ligation. The following crowns are fastened using the ligation technology with the lowest beam - then it will fit tightly into the lock. After that, the connection should be strengthened using a dowel with the lower and upper row.

In the first bar, a thorn is made 1/3 of the width of the bar. In the rest of the crowns, the width of the tenon must correspond to the width of the groove.

Scheme of marking the creation of joints of a log house from a bar of 6x9 meters in size: the letters A and C denote the longitudinal walls, D and B - the transverse walls, E - the internal partition; number 1 - the joints of the timber.

When erecting crowns, splicing and longitudinal connection of the bar, which will not be strong, should be avoided. Professionals suggest to beginner carpenters to choose a straight tenon for joining the timber.

To use it, you need to create a template where you need to provide for gaps of 5 mm for insulation. Gash on the spike must be done from the side that will look inside the log house. Other walls should have spikes with left and right saws. To do this, you just need to turn the template upside down.

You can strengthen the connection using a wooden dowel, placing it diagonally from the side of the edge of the outer corner.

When performing a warm corner during the construction of a country house or a bath, land owners who do not have carpentry experience should purchase a ready-made timber with grooves or spikes, which will cost more than usual. You can also invite qualified craftsmen who will process the ends according to the groove-tenon system and assemble the frame without technical errors.