Installation Of Imitation Of A Bar (64 Photos): How To Fix It Yourself With Your Own Hands? Cleamers And Other Fasteners For Cladding, Imitation Of Timber Vertically Outside, Insid

2024 Author: Beatrice Philips | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-15 04:10

When building your own home, you need to choose the right facing materials. Any building should not only have a good appearance, but also provide high-quality protection from adverse environmental factors.

Often, for interior decoration, owners choose a beam made from good types of wood. Such structures are elegant in appearance, but the construction process is very expensive. Therefore, in order to save money, many people prefer to use an imitation of a bar or a false beam.

Installation methods

Imitation of a bar is a board of a certain size, which is made from the outside under a natural bar … On the long sides, the material has special joining elements - spikes and grooves, which ensure reliable adhesion of individual parts. As a result, the surface of the finish is flat, smooth, without gaps and crevices. An imitation of a bar is installed in two ways.

Horizontally

The most successful way. In this position, the planks easily lie on top of each other and form a reliable structure. Laying imitation of a bar in any way is carried out in 3 stages.

Assembling the frame of the lathing . Cladding begins with the installation of a wall frame, which should be located strictly perpendicular to the cladding panels. For the lathing, bars with dimensions of 30x50, 40x40, 40x50 mm are used, which are installed with a step of at least 400-600 mm. The size of the step depends on the thickness of the raised beam: the thinner the material, the larger the step can be left between the frame posts.

Before use, the frame material must be treated with antiseptics.

In the construction of baths and saunas, the frame of the crate is assembled from galvanized steel profiles. In conditions of high air humidity and constant temperature changes, such a structure will last much longer.

Before installing the false timber, free the material from the packaging and leave it in the room to be installed or in the yard under a canopy for 4-5 days. This will help the wood to adapt to the new microclimate, avoid the appearance of small cracks or any other surface defects.

Fastening parts of the structure . Installation is carried out with the spike up, with the groove down, which prevents the accumulation of condensate in the grooves. High-quality trimming with a false beam should hold well, have a flat surface. To do this, when installing the planks, you should not save on fasteners. You can use nails, screws or special clamps.

The fastening of the elements can be carried out both "through the spikes" and "through the grooves". In the first version, small nails or self-tapping screws are used, which must go through the bar at an angle. The head of a nail or self-tapping screw is slightly recessed in the wood, and then imperceptibly closes with a groove of another strip.

The standard for mounting the structure is considered to be fastening "through the groove" with the help of cleats . They are put on the groove, and then attached through the holes with self-tapping screws or studs. Cleamers securely fix the structure, they are invisible, as they are closed by the spikes of the subsequent planks. Sold in packs of 100-200 pieces together with screws or nails.

In places where the raised beam is covered with furniture or other decorative elements, the plank can be fixed directly "through the body" of the imitation.

Organization of corners … When laying an imitation of a bar outside, it is necessary to hide the outer corners formed by the ends of the strips. Boards at the junction must be fastened together with nails or self-tapping screws (2 for each plank). Further along the height, a decorative corner is installed, hiding the longitudinal seam, as well as fasteners.

Internal corners usually do not need reworking as the planks fit well together. The fixation of the false timber in the room should be carried out "through the spike" or "through the groove" so that the parts of the fasteners are not visible.

At the joints between the floor and the wall, the first planks are fixed “through the body” in such a way that the heads of the nails or screws are subsequently covered with a plinth. If the ceiling is sheathed with imitation, and it is assumed that a ceiling plinth is used, the first planks are fastened in a similar way.

Each plank is necessarily covered with special protective solutions before being put on sale . Regardless, it is best to reprocess the material prior to installation. So it will last longer and retain its original qualities and appearance, and treatment with fire-resistant solutions will prevent accidental fires of the structure.

Vertically

Some people prefer to lay the raised beam vertically or even diagonally . Please note that it will be more difficult to fasten and join elements of such a structure. If you have a desire to do the styling in this way, it is better to do it indoors. The frame of the lathing in this case is also assembled strictly perpendicular to the imitation slats. Outside, the imitation of a bar is installed only horizontally.

How to install indoors?

False timber is well suited for interior decoration of rooms designed in an eco-style. It gives the interior a fresh look, has good heat and sound insulation properties.

It is possible to sheathe with imitation of timber not only the walls of rooms, but also floors with ceilings and even a balcony . In this case, it is recommended to use materials with dimensions of at least 20-25 mm in thickness and 100-120 mm in width. You should not use thicker planks, as they will visually reduce the usable space of the room. The length is selected depending on the size of the wall and the way the timber is laid.

The interior decoration of the premises can be made using various materials or exclusively imitation of timber. The first method is called combined, the second - monolithic . With the combined decoration of premises, the laying of timber is limited to a separate wall or part of it, combined with plaster, tiles, stone.

In the case of monolithic wall finishes, the floor and ceiling are completely covered with wooden planks. They should adhere closely to each other, all joints, grooves should be even and, if possible, hidden by interior elements. Installation consists of several stages.

Before the main work, it is necessary to prepare the surface . It must be flat and cleaned, free of chips, cracks and other defects. It is necessary to carefully treat it with antiseptics and solutions that prevent rotting and mold growth.

Lathing

For the assembly and installation of the lathing frame, standard medium-sized bars are used, but not less than 20 mm along one plane … Since an imitation of a smaller thickness is used for the inner lining, the pitch between the lathing bars can be up to 600-900 mm.

Warming

The next step is steam and thermal insulation of the room . Before laying the false timber, a vapor barrier film is attached to the crate, preventing the penetration of moisture inside. All joints are carefully fixed. The next layer is insulation: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or any other materials of your choice, the use of which will reduce the heat transfer of the building and keep the optimal temperature inside the room.

Wall mount

The panels are usually installed horizontally, starting from the ceiling, in such a way that the spikes are facing up and the grooves are down. Parts of the structure must fit snugly, the joints must be aligned.

Using the level, follow the position of the first planks, because it depends on how even the whole structure will be.

The first panels on the corner between the ceiling and the wall, as well as the last ones between the wall and the floor, are best fixed “through the body” and covered with plinths . Fastening of subsequent structural elements is carried out with clamps "through the groove" or self-tapping screws with nails "through the thorn".

Another way of laying imitation of timber is with the help of "duet" fasteners . Professional builders recommend using it for beginners who are afraid to install the structure fragilely or leave random gaps. The fasteners are first connected to the false beam in its upper part, the limiter on the part will not allow it to go above or below the intended place. Then the bar is installed in its place with a spike up, and the protruding parts of the fasteners are connected with self-tapping screws to the crate.

This method leaves space between the batten and the raised beam wall, which improves ventilation. It is inconspicuous and suitable for interior cladding. In this case, it is better to start the installation of panels from the floor to the ceiling.

Please note: the service life of the materials depends on how correctly you fix all parts of the structure. Otherwise, air will penetrate into the grooves and joints. The moisture contained in it will condense inside and cause the growth of mold or rotting of the structure.

Ceiling sheathing

This is the most difficult part of the job because of its danger and inconvenience. You should not try to sheathe the ceiling with a false beam alone, for such work, at least 3-4 people are required . Before laying, it is necessary to prepare the lathing with a lath pitch of no more than 400-500 mm. The ideal fastener in this case will provide a kleimer or "duet". With them, it is much easier to mount an imitation of a bar on the ceiling than with a hammer and nails.

Features of outdoor installation

Outside, walls, gables and foundations are clad with a false beam . For exterior decoration, it is recommended to use materials with dimensions of about 30-35 mm in thickness, at least 150-180 mm in width. Such parameters allow you to create a full-fledged structure that imitates natural timber. Otherwise, when using a false beam with a smaller thickness, it will seem that the building is sheathed with clapboard.

The length of the materials must be selected exactly according to the dimensions of the wall, since horizontal installation is preferable to imitate the timber. Correctly selected boards will eliminate the need to join them along the length, closing the outer slots with separate strips.

Please note: the use of large slats in construction will not only save on quantity, but also reduce the number of joints, which will reduce the risk of dirt and moisture penetration, and increase the sound and heat insulation properties of the building.

It is not difficult to mount a false beam with your own hands, but the finishing must be carried out strictly in accordance with the technological process. It consists of the same steps as for internal installation, but has some peculiarities:

• frame bars should be larger;
• galvanized steel profiles are suitable for the lathing;
• frame elements should be installed in smaller steps;
• the organization of the outer corners is carried out in the manner described above;
• in addition to steam and heat insulation outside, you can use windproof plates or foil.

Outside, cleats will not always provide a reliable connection; many builders recommend using a nailer for such purposes. Each plank is fastened with three T-shaped nails with a length of 64 mm in a row with a pitch, like with battens. Such a connection is reliable, the imitation for the next year will not fall off and will not form a zigzag.

The advantage of the method is that there is no need to hammer nails on your own with a hammer, the disadvantage is an obvious aesthetic defect, although the cracks formed by the nailer decrease after a year and become flatter

This effect arises because the nails are sunk into the wood, the fibers subsequently close the defect and set over time.

After construction, the outer side of the structure must be treated with antiseptics and special solutions to prevent rotting and mold growth, as well as to increase the refractory properties . It is necessary to choose materials for interior and exterior decoration taking into account the following criteria: size, type and grade of wood, price.

The size of the imitation is selected according to your own wishes. Moreover, it is important that the boards for outdoor decoration are thicker and wider than for indoor ones . Indoors, you can use short planks to save money, if you are not worried about the presence of a large number of joints. Outside, they are unacceptable, since they are a weak point in the structure and contribute to the rapid penetration of dirt and water inside.

The type of wood should be chosen depending on the purpose of the room and the nature of the microclimate in it. Each breed has its own quality and mechanical characteristics.

Deciduous trees (linden, maple, aspen) … They are used for interior decoration of any type of premises. Materials from this wood are devoid of characteristic odor, ideal for people suffering from chronic respiratory diseases and bronchial asthma. Panels made of deciduous wood have an optimal price, long service life, do not change their color over time and maintain their quality for a long time.

Conifers (spruce, pine, cedar, fir) . Panels made of such wood cannot be used in places of high temperature due to the resin content. Despite their moisture resistance, they are in no way suitable for cladding kitchens, bathrooms, as well as baths and saunas. Do not forget about the characteristic coniferous smell, which will begin to irritate you when you are in the room for a long time. The optimal place for such panels is a toilet, where they will play the role of natural fragrances.

Oak … Such panels are ideal for cladding rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bath, sauna), they can be used for cladding bedrooms and children's rooms, a gym. This type of wood is not afraid of mechanical stress, as well as dampness.

Larch … The most moisture resistant wood. She, like oak, can sheathe kitchens, baths, saunas, bathrooms. It will be easier to fix such panels than oak ones, especially to the ceiling.

Wood of a certain type has different qualities, on the basis of which 4 varieties are distinguished. The higher it is, the more expensive the material, but at the same time of higher quality. Typically, a variety is judged according to the following parameters:

• evenness and smoothness of the surface;
• the presence of defects: cracks, chips, depressions;
• the presence of traces of decay, insect damage, burning;
• uniformity of color and pattern;
• the presence of knots and their nature.

Sorts of imitation of a bar

Extra	The surface of the boards is even, smooth, well planed. There are no defects on both the front and back sides, but end cracks up to 3 cm in size are allowed. There are no traces of decay, damage by insects. There are no knots, the presence of embryonic knots is allowed, no more than 1-2 per bar.
A	The surface of the boards is even, smooth, poorly planed areas that are not visible during assembly are allowed. Defects are absent or insignificant: cracks, resin deposits, chips in an amount of no more than 10% of the surface area. There are no traces of rotting, insect damage. Single knots, small size, do not fall out.
B	Significant non-planed areas are allowed on the surface of the boards. Defects are present in small numbers, almost always hidden after installation. Three wormholes per board are allowed. The presence of fading and bluing up to 10% of the surface area is acceptable. There are no signs of decay, no insect damage. Knots of different sizes in large quantities, dead and falling out are allowed.
C	Poor quality wood, not planed. The presence of a large number of defects that do not affect the strength of the board is allowed. The presence of longitudinal cracks with a length of no more than 3 cm is allowed. Knots of various shapes, sizes, a large number of dead and falling out knots.

First-class products are almost impossible to find on the market . Producers often issue grade A for it, which is somewhat cheaper in cost. There are also intermediate categories such as AB and BC, which combine the qualities of adjacent varieties.

Do not forget to carry out the correct and timely care of materials: varnishing, protective solutions against decay, mold and parasites, fire-resistant liquids. This approach will help not only extend the life of the materials, but also preserve their original qualities.

Why is it worth choosing an imitation timber cladding? The answer is simple: it has many advantages over other materials. Among them:

• aesthetic and attractive appearance of the building;
• harmony with any design;
• a flat surface of the structure that hides all the flaws of the main building material;
• environmental friendliness;
• formation of a healthy indoor microclimate;
• pleasant aroma of wood;
• the presence of heat and sound insulation properties;
• simple installation that does not require special knowledge, skills and tools;
• cost-effectiveness and ease of maintenance;
• long service life;
• the ability to choose the size, type and grade of wood;
• the ability to cover wiring, pipes and other communications with a structure;
• the material is almost indistinguishable from natural timber.