The Proportions Of Concrete For The Blind Area: The Composition Of The Solution In A Concrete Mixer, The Proportions In Buckets And Shovels, The Proportions Of Cement Of Different

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Video: The Proportions Of Concrete For The Blind Area: The Composition Of The Solution In A Concrete Mixer, The Proportions In Buckets And Shovels, The Proportions Of Cement Of Different

Video: The Proportions Of Concrete For The Blind Area: The Composition Of The Solution In A Concrete Mixer, The Proportions In Buckets And Shovels, The Proportions Of Cement Of Different
Video: Concrete mix ratio - Various grades of concrete - Concrete mix design 2024, May
The Proportions Of Concrete For The Blind Area: The Composition Of The Solution In A Concrete Mixer, The Proportions In Buckets And Shovels, The Proportions Of Cement Of Different
The Proportions Of Concrete For The Blind Area: The Composition Of The Solution In A Concrete Mixer, The Proportions In Buckets And Shovels, The Proportions Of Cement Of Different
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Blind area - concrete flooring adjacent to the foundation of the house along its perimeter. It is needed to prevent the foundation from undermining due to prolonged rains, from which a lot of water that has flowed out through the drain collects near the base on the territory. The blind area will take her a meter or more from the house.

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Norms

The concrete for the blind area around the house should be about the same grade that was used when pouring the foundation. If you do not plan to make a tiled blind area on thin concrete, then use standard (commercial) concrete not lower than the M300 brand . It is he who will protect the foundation from excess moisture, which leads to premature failure of the base of the house due to frequent wetting.

A constantly wet foundation is a kind of cold bridge between the courtyard (or street) and indoor space . Freezing in winter, moisture leads to cracking of the foundation. The task is to keep the base of the house dry as long as possible, and for this, along with waterproofing, a blind area serves.

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Pebbles of fraction 5-20 mm are suitable as crushed stone. If it is not possible to deliver several tons of crushed granite, it is permissible to use secondary - brick and stone battle. The use of plaster and glass shards (for example, bottle or window breakage) is not recommended - concrete will not acquire the required strength.

Whole empty bottles should not be put in the blind area - due to their internal emptiness, they will significantly reduce the strength of such a coating , it may eventually fall inside, which will require it to be filled with new cement mortar. Also, crushed stone should not contain lime stones, secondary (recycled) building materials, etc. The best solution is granite crushed.

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The sand should be as clean as possible. In particular, it is sieved from clay inclusions. The content of silt and clay in unrefined open pit sand can reach 15% of its mass, and this is a significant weakening of the concrete solution, which would require an increase in the amount of added cement by the same percentage. The experience of numerous builders shows that it is much cheaper to weed out silt and clay lumps, shells and other foreign inclusions than to raise the dosage of cement and stones.

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If we take industrial concrete (order a concrete mixer), then 300 kg of cement (ten 30-kg bags), 1100 kg of crushed stone, 800 kg of sand and 200 liters of water will take per cubic meter . Self-made concrete has an undeniable advantage - its composition is known to the owner of the facility, since it is not ordered from intermediaries, who may not even fill up cement or gravel.

The proportions of standard concrete for the blind area are as follows:

  • 1 bucket of cement;
  • 3 buckets of seeded (or washed) sand;
  • 4 buckets of gravel;
  • 0.5 buckets of water.
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If necessary, you can add more water - provided that waterproofing (polyethylene) is placed under the poured concrete coating. Portland cement is selected as M400 grade. If we take cement of a lower quality grade, then the concrete will not gain the required strength.

The blind area is a concrete slab poured into the area delimited by the formwork . The formwork will prevent the concrete from spreading outside the area to be poured. To determine the area of pouring concrete as a future blind area, before fencing off with formwork, some space is marked along the length and width. The resulting values are converted to meters and multiplied. Most often, the width of the blind area around the house is 70-100 cm, this is enough to be able to walk around the building, including performing any work on any of the walls of the house.

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To significantly strengthen the blind area, some craftsmen lay a reinforcing mesh constructed from reinforcement tied with a knitting wire. This frame has a cell pitch of the order of 20-30 cm. It is not recommended to make these joints welded: in case of significant temperature fluctuations, the welding places can come off.

To determine the volume of concrete (in cubic meters) or tonnage (the amount of concrete used), the resulting value (length times width - area) is multiplied by the height (depth of the slab to be poured). Most often, the pouring depth is about 20-30 cm. The deeper the blind area is poured, the more concrete will be required for pouring.

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For example, to make a square meter of a blind area 30 cm deep, 0.3 m3 of concrete is consumed . A thicker blind area will last longer, but this does not mean that its thickness must be brought to the depth of the foundation (a meter or more). This would be uneconomical and pointless: the foundation, due to excess weight, could roll in any direction, eventually cracking.

The concrete blind area should extend beyond the outer edge of the roof (along the perimeter) by at least 20 cm . For example, if a roof with a slate covering retreats from the walls by 30 cm, then the width of the blind area should be at least half a meter. This is necessary so that drops and jets of rainwater (or melt from snow) falling from the roof do not erode the boundary between the blind area and the soil, undermining the ground under it, but flow down onto the concrete itself.

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The blind area should not be interrupted anywhere - for maximum strength, in addition to pouring the steel frame, its entire area should be continuous and uniform . It is impossible to deepen the blind area by less than 10 cm - a too thin layer will prematurely wear out and crack, not withstanding the load from people passing through it, the location of tools for other work in the area near the house, from the ladders installed at the place of work, and so on.

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For water to drain from slanting rains and from the roof, the blind area must have a slope of at least 1.5 degrees. Otherwise, the water will stagnate, and with the onset of frost it will freeze under the blind area, forcing the soil to swell.

The expansion joints of the blind area must take into account the thermal expansion and contraction of the slabs. For this purpose, these seams take place between the blind area and the outer surface (wall) of the foundation. The blind area, which does not contain a reinforcing cage, is also divided using transverse seams every 2 m of the length of the covering . For the arrangement of the seams, plastic materials are used - vinyl tape or foam.

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The proportions of concrete of different brands

The proportions of concrete for the blind area are calculated independently. Concrete, creating a thick layer completely closed from water penetration under it, will replace tiles or asphalt. The fact is that the tile can move to the side over time, and the asphalt can crumble. The concrete grade can be M200, however, such concrete has a noticeably lower strength and reliability due to the reduced amount of cement.

In the case of using a sand-gravel mixture, they proceed from the requirement for its own proportions. The enriched sand and gravel mixture may contain fine crushed stone (up to 5 mm). Concrete from such crushed stone is less durable than in the case of stones of the standard (5-20 mm) fraction.

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For ASG, recalculation is taken for clean sand and gravel: so, in the case of using the proportion of "cement-sand-pebbles" with a ratio of 1: 3: 4, it is permissible to use the ratio "cement-ASG", respectively equal to 1: 7. In reality, out of 7 buckets of ASG, half a bucket is replaced by the same volume of cement - a ratio of 1, 5/6, 5 will give a noticeably higher concrete strength.

For concrete grade M300, the ratio of M500 cement to sand and gravel is 1/2, 4/4, 3 . If you need to prepare concrete grade M400 from the same cement, then use the ratio 1/1, 6/3, 2. If you use granite slag, then for concrete of medium grades the ratio "cement-sand-slag" is 1/1/2, 25 Concrete from granite slag is somewhat inferior in strength to the classical concrete composition prepared from granite crushed.

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Carefully measure the desired proportion in parts - often, as a reference and initial data for the calculation, they operate with a 10-liter bucket of cement, and the rest of the ingredients are "adjusted" according to this amount. For granite screening, a cement-screening ratio of 1: 7 is used . Screenings, like quarry sand, are washed away from clay and soil particles.

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Mortar preparation tips

The resulting ingredients are conveniently mixed in a small concrete mixer. In a wheelbarrow - when pouring in small batches at the rate of up to 100 kg per full trolley - mixing concrete to a homogeneous mass would be difficult . A shovel or trowel when mixing is not the best assistant: the craftsman will spend more time (half an hour or an hour) with manual mixing than if he used mechanized tools.

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It is inconvenient to mix concrete with a mixer attachment on a drill - pebbles will slow down the spinning of such a mixer.

Concrete sets in the prescribed time (2 hours) at a temperature of about +20 . It is not recommended to carry out construction work in winter, when the air temperature is sharply lowered (0 degrees and below): in the cold, concrete will not seize at all and will not gain strength, it will immediately freeze, and immediately crumble when thawed. After 6 hours - from the moment of completion of pouring and leveling of the coating - the concrete is additionally poured with water: this helps it to gain maximum strength in a month. Concrete that has hardened and fully gained strength can last at least 50 years, if the proportions are observed and the master does not save on the quality of the ingredients.

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