Putty (163 Photos): Polyurethane Or Oil-glue Types Of Putty For Walls, Putty With A Cement Compound

2024 Author: Beatrice Philips | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 05:33

When it comes to major repairs in an apartment, of course, you cannot do without a serious approach to the preliminary preparation of the walls and ceiling. To do this, you must use a putty. The types and subtleties of applying this material should be known to every master who wants to repair the room with his own hands and carry out the work as efficiently as possible.

What it is?

A putty is a plastic mixture that is designed to eliminate or minimize even the largest imperfections on surfaces, of course, provided good quality formulations are used. The main technical characteristics of the putty should serve for high-quality leveling of wall surfaces intended for painting or wallpaper.

Sometimes it is necessary to putty and ceilings for whitewashing or painting if they have large cracks. A good putty will always help out the master and ennoble even those surfaces that initially looked very unattractive. Modern materials provide many formulations with a completely white color when dry. This greatly facilitates subsequent finishing work.

A putty is produced in the form of a powder or paste, which may include gypsum, lime, polymer and fiberglass additives, as well as varnish and drying oil (an oily substance that has been well known from ancient times). The concept itself comes from the German word "spatula", which in construction terminology means a spatula for applying a mixture to a surface.

Pros and cons

In order to choose the right filler, the first step is to understand that it can be produced both in dry and liquid form. Dry mixes are more common and need to be prepared just before starting work. Their main advantages are affordability, ease of storage and transportation. They can also be stored for some time at certain temperatures. However, a liquid mixture diluted with water cannot be stored for a long time, and in order to properly prepare it, it is important not to be mistaken in the amount of water. Cooking takes time, effort and skill.

Of course, it may seem that it is best to buy ready-made types of putty: they do not need to be diluted, and they are much more unpretentious to storage conditions. However, it is important to bear in mind that they are much more expensive and are not suitable for preliminary work related to leveling the walls: for this purpose, only dry mixes must be used.

The ready-made composition should be used only when creating thin layers at the end of the putty work, then the surface will be so smooth that it does not require any additional sanding.

Views

Olive oil-based putty is the cheapest of all . It is considered outdated and even harmful, but this is not entirely true. Of course, drying oil tends to soak deeply into any surface, including concrete, and later its stains can appear through the finishing layer. However, it is unfair to give her a final "verdict" about harmfulness: the oil-adhesive composition is the best suited as a waterproofing layer and can protect the plaster from premature destruction, especially in conditions of high humidity. It is ideal for wet areas such as basements, washrooms and kitchens. It can be used to fill cracks in any part of the bathroom, it is waterproof and will never let you down.

This specific type of material is ideal in combination with unpretentious oil paints, which are used for the subsequent wall cladding, no stains will appear on them. It is perfect for working with wooden walls and OSB-slabs faced with plaster, as well as if you plan to use fiberglass for cladding. Thanks to it, the frayed crate and felt lining will be reliably protected from both rotting processes and the bark beetle, which often destroys wooden products and structures. Even the popular acrylic putty does not have the same degree of protection of the plastered wood as the oil-glue putty, so its use in some cases is still indispensable.

Cement (or gypsum-cement) putty is more expensive than oil and is suitable for all types of finishing work. This is a dry mixture that needs to be kneaded in water. There are different types of cement putty: both for residential areas and for areas with high levels of humidity. First of all, such a composition is used in order to decorate the walls for gluing with wallpaper: it does not leave stains, like oil, so you can not be afraid to decorate the room with expensive and beautiful wallpaper.

Water-dispersive putty also refers to cement varieties, but water-polymer materials are used as its basis. It is a ready-to-use mixture sold in sturdy plastic buckets. Due to its industrial preparation, such a composition is distinguished by a correctly maintained level of viscosity, strength and smoothness.

This type of material is especially recommended for a novice master when preparing walls for painting in the absence of serious defects.

Acrylic fillers They are distinguished by high cost and good quality, but they cannot be called completely universal: they are not suitable as a basis for simple and cheap types of paints due to the too ideal surface that is formed during leveling. If you use acrylic putty, then the paint under it must be of the appropriate quality and price, otherwise it will not adhere well and quickly crumble.

Two-component epoxy putty replaced cement, lime and oil-based formulations. It contains epoxy resin, hardener and various fillers. It is also called polyester. Heavy solutions obtained from such formulations provide increased material strength. Recently, an epoxy putty with fiberglass and aluminum shavings has become popular. Certain types of such material are intended for work on metal, in particular, in order to touch up scratches on cars and prepare them for re-painting.

The main feature of two-component epoxy-based materials is that it has an optimal curing rate, so there is no need to rush too much after preparing the mixture. The polymerization process begins some time after the filler is evenly distributed over the surface to be treated. It fully hardens after six to eight hours, after which you can safely engage in any facing or grinding. The addition of extraneous solvents is not allowed to the mixture.

The scope of application of two-component compositions is very wide: from cosmetic "repair" of metal parts of cars to any putty work with varying degrees of complexity.

Among modern two-component putties, polyurethane is also worth highlighting . It was developed to eliminate defects in polyurethane coatings (floors, walls, partitions), but due to its high adhesive qualities and durability, it can also be used in working with metals, concrete, and ceramics. Its mechanical properties make it possible to repair serious potholes in sinks, bathrooms, vehicle bodies.

When using such formulations, it is important to remember that they are produced in two packages (hence the concept of "two-component"): the base for the putty itself and the hardening substance. When preparing the mixture, you should adhere to the proportions indicated in the instructions.

According to their purpose, all materials are traditionally divided into four groups: starting putty (its main function is preliminary leveling of defects), finishing (material applied as a final layer after the main one) and compositions for specialized use.

Starting types of material, or "first layer putties" are needed in order to eliminate deep surface defects: the ceiling, door openings and slopes. Such a putty is chosen depending on what basic material is in its composition.

When choosing, adhesion properties, wear resistance and strength are appreciated, as well as the ability to apply a layer with a variable thickness, which can vary up to 25 millimeters.

Finishing plan putties ("second layer") should be applied after the first, immediately before starting wallpapering or painting. They are used for thin types of materials (flock coatings, textiles, paint) and are intended mainly for smoothing out small defects. They are applied carefully and in stages, as a result, a white surface of increased smoothness and density is obtained without the need for subsequent grinding.

Universal types of putty, as a rule, have both finishing and leveling properties, and can also be used as materials for specialized purposes. Ideal for preliminary minor repairs of all surfaces and their leveling. In addition, the universal putty is used for decorative finishing. Materials that will fully comply with the concept of universal belong to a higher price category, moreover, their assortment does not differ in variety.

As already noted, universal putties are significantly inferior in quality to dry mixes, which are designed to fulfill a specific purpose.

Specialized materials include special types of additives and are intended for work with a certain specificity, for example, for sealing joints on gypsum panels without using tape with reinforcing properties.

Resilient and flexible blends are available to fill breathable wall cracks and similar options.

By composition, all putty mixtures are divided into three types: lime (cement), gypsum and modern, which are based on polymer materials. Gypsum putty is non-shrinking and leveled well, but does not have good moisture resistance, therefore it is suitable only for interior work in dry rooms. Lime varieties, on the contrary, tolerate moisture well, but at the same time have strong shrinkage. As for all types of polymers, many of them are universal, but they are also much more expensive, which often limits their use, especially in conditions of processing large areas.

Manufacturers

Semin company , which has a representative office in different cities of Russia, appeared in France, and has been on the domestic market since 1996. Its main specialization is the import of building materials and finishing mixtures both from France and from other European countries. The company itself was founded in 1938 as a company producing high quality professional finishing materials.

At the present stage, the Semin company is represented by a wide range of fillers, as well as mixtures for working with metal parts of cars. The company has three factories in France, and one in Russia. The total number of countries to which it organizes the supply of its products is more than 40.

One of the most popular ready-made mixtures of this company is the Semin two-in-one putty, designed for both primary and final surface treatment. Differs in easy application and high adhesive properties. After drying, the wall takes on a pure white color. All material properties described in the instructions for use are fully true.

Polish company Novol in 1978 it was widely known in the countries of Eastern Europe as a manufacturer of painting materials for cars. It was started by a small company dealing only with this segment of the business, but soon the production expanded: universal and specialized putty compounds appeared in combination with additional materials. Since 1989, another large plant has been operating in the city of Poznan, and Novol's products have been supplied to the Russian market since the end of the nineties.

The line of putties of this company is very diverse. Each material has its own specific purpose, which greatly facilitates the choice. Basically, the compositions are focused on working with metal and plastic surfaces. On sale there are specialized formulations intended, for example, only for plastic, as well as universal ones.

Materials can be applied either with an ordinary spatula or using pneumatics, but only if capital alignment and elimination of large defects are not required.

Among the automotive mixtures of this company, it received the best reviews putty Novol Fiber … It is characterized by ease of application to metal surfaces, good adhesion and high wear resistance. Ideal for truck body repairs. The strength and durability of this putty is due to the fact that it is composed of polyester resins and fiberglass.

On the territory of Russia there are also several worthy companies for the production of filling materials for various purposes. For example, a company " Hercules ", founded in 1997 in Siberia, initially adopted most of the valuable experience from colleagues from Germany, which subsequently led to its licensing from the Germans. "Hercules" is a well-deserved leader in the Russian market, specializing in dry putty mixtures, indispensable in cases of deep leveling and processing of large surfaces.

The company's products imply the use of exclusively high-quality raw materials and are the best in Siberia, and the prices for products are always affordable and humane, focused on a wide range of consumers. In 2015, a new production workshop was opened, equipped with modern types of equipment, which allowed the company to significantly increase the overall performance of the goods. The manufacturer is constantly expanding its business relationships in the market. The product is successfully sold in more than twenty regions, as well as in Kazakhstan.

Among the fillers of the Hercules company a non-shrinking two-component mixture is in demand. It is notable for its low cost, it can fill cracks of any size. Suitable for use in dry rooms. It contains a high-grade gypsum substance, as well as a white inert filler and polymer additives that provide the material with high adhesive properties.

The composition is easy to apply and is absolutely safe for the environment.

Another recognized leader in the Russian market of filling materials is the trade brand "Tex " from St. Petersburg, better known as Tikkurila. In such cases, one should distinguish between the concepts of the company and the trademark under which it manufactures its products. "Tex" has long been providing the Russian consumer with dry and universal mixtures for puttying, attracting them with reasonable prices and decent quality of goods.

Products of the "Tex" trademark are represented by a wide range of primers, adhesives and solvents, as well as various fillers: oil, acrylic, latex. Among them, buyers are most often in demand for the universal composition "Lux" for performing work inside premises of any purpose. The "Lux" putty has a high level of moisture resistance, which allows it to be used in the bathroom, kitchen, saunas and swimming pools.

However, it is not recommended to use it in places where there is no heating, since the material can quickly become unusable in the cold.

Large German concern Knauf is a recognized leader in the market of all types of building materials. In the early 30s of the last century, the brothers Karl and Alphonse Knauf had the idea to use such a wonderful natural material as gypsum in construction. It all started with the development of gypsum mines in Schengen, followed by the opening of the first Knauf plant in Germany. It is noteworthy that the Knauf brothers decided to start their activity precisely with the release of dry plaster mixes on a gypsum basis.

In the future, the company began to develop rapidly, producing drywall, machine plaster and liquid floor screed. Dry putty mixtures of cement and gypsum appeared on the market in the 70s, and when the state system in Russia began to change dramatically, the German manufacturer became seriously interested in the prospect of international cooperation. In the 90s, gypsum plants in the territory of the former USSR almost stopped their work, and if any of the building mixtures were produced, their quality, unfortunately, left much to be desired. But since the representatives of Knauf saw good potential in the development of the market in Russia, they very soon decided to start production with us, especially since the company's range was subsequently expanded to the release of universal putty mixtures, the most popular for simple repair work.

Throughout its existence, the building mixtures of this company have not undergone changes in terms of quality and production technology. Knauf is distinguished by its customer focus and humanity in terms of pricing policy for its products. Now in Russia, production is carried out on German equipment, and raw materials are mined on our territory. In the 2000s, the firm entered the investment market of Ukraine and Kazakhstan. In Russia, the company attracts and trains our specialists, providing people with decent jobs and excellent products.

The most popular among consumers is Fugen putty , which is a highly effective mixture with gypsum powder and polymer additives in the composition. It is designed to level walls and ceilings in rooms with optimal humidity values. Suitable for working with concrete and plastered surfaces in order to eliminate large and small defects, ideally in contact with drywall.

Due to its plasticity and high adhesion, this particular composition has received the best reviews among construction professionals.

Many, of course, are familiar with another German company Henkel … It is known as a manufacturer of household chemicals and personal care products, but its offshoot Henkel Bautechnik deals with the construction segment. Among a wide range of building materials, putty mixtures stand out, both dry and ready-made. The choice of putty, unlike Knauf, is not so wide, but the advantage of this manufacturer is that it is much easier to find a specialized mixture. Each putty is designed strictly for a specific task, which is very popular with many craftsmen. Henkel is represented on the Russian market by the Ceresit trademark.

Putty mixture Ceresit CT 225 - a great option for facade work. Masters note that it is cement types of mixtures that are the best among all putties of this brand. Its main advantage is the content of a large amount of reinforcing additives necessary for carrying out external finishing work, however, in order for them to be evenly distributed over the entire surface, one must not forget to stir the finished composition as often as possible.

Selection Tips

The best results can be obtained only when the formulations produced by the same company are used, as a rule, in this case, they complement each other in the best way. When applying the first layer of putty, a mixture of a coarse fraction with a thickness of up to one and a half millimeters will be ideal.

The final stage of puttying should be carried out with a material of a finer fraction - no more than 0.3 mm.

When choosing a mixture, the question always arises as to which is better: ready-made or dry . Of course, dry mixes are much cheaper, but they allow you to get the highest quality result, and all efforts to prepare a homogeneous mass will be justified. It should always be borne in mind that no matter how attractive one or another ready-made mixture from the category of universal may seem, the base layer should be applied precisely with a dry mixture, correctly diluted with water. Moreover, a ready-made putty always costs much more.

Each package contains an indication of the area of application of the material, which you should definitely adhere to. Also, when buying, you need to pay attention to those conditions in which the use of the composition is acceptable or the most optimal. This is an indicator of temperature, place of application (room or open air), humidity.

You should carefully read the indications of the material for use. It can be used for deep leveling of the surface, in order to smooth the upper layers of flat areas. It is also necessary to familiarize yourself with how this or that type of putty is combined with other additional materials, so that problems do not arise already in the process.

If the concrete walls are being prepared for painting and are free of major defects, the all-in-one ready-made concrete filler will work best because it will provide an impeccable level of quality in the final coat. An inexpensive but reliable dry mix will be the perfect base for any kind of wallpaper. When it is supposed to glue thin and light wallpaper, the finishing layer of the material must be chosen as whiter as possible so that the color of the decorative coating does not change or deteriorate.

When planning work only indoors, you should buy a putty that does not contain sand.

Before buying a ready-made putty mixture, it does not hurt to check the quality of the product "by eye "by asking the seller to open the lid of the jar. If the product is of poor quality, its surface may contain dark streaks or dried blotches. In case it is not easy to make a choice, it is recommended to dwell on one of the mixtures of the universal plan, thus reducing the risk of buying the material that may not be suitable at all. Among professionals, there is an opinion that it is best to take an acrylic putty for leveling walls.

Application tools

The putty workflow is not that complicated, but it often requires basic skills and a certain amount of experience. For a beginner, the main thing is to focus on ensuring that all actions are performed in the correct sequence, plus learning how to properly handle the tool.

The first step is to need a screwdriver or drill ., which has a special nozzle, because the dry mixture requires dilution with water. High-quality mixing is possible only when using a drill and a nozzle. If you don't have such a tool at hand, you can try the old-fashioned way to use a regular kitchen mixer.

The material is applied with a spatula, but one tool will not be enough for a full and high-quality work. It is recommended to buy a set that includes paddles, each of which is individually sized.

The main space is trowelled with a wide working surface, while for corners a small trowel should be used.

You will also have to work with a roller and, most likely, also more than one in order to work well in hard-to-reach places in several stages. The optimum pile length of the roller is two to three millimeters. Primer brushes should not be overlooked either, because pre-priming the surface, no matter how troublesome it may seem, will ensure better adhesion of putty and other materials. A building or laser level will be needed to assess the evenness of the walls, and sandpaper, both large and small, will be needed to clean the surfaces.

If the area of work is large, the so-called manual skinner will become an indispensable assistant . It will be possible to fix sandpaper or a mesh on it with clamps - this way a wider area of the surface is captured and the process goes much faster. Coarse sandpaper is required for starting work, and fine sandpaper is useful for finishing layers.

Since the main tool for work is a spatula, when buying it, it is important to keep in mind that they are different. There are blades for carrying out external work on the facades of buildings and tools for painting purposes. The thickness of the blade of the painting trowel is much less than that of the facade trowel, and the width of the blade of the facade is much larger, because it is designed to work with a much larger surface area.

A good paddle should be made of solid material and have a comfortable and strong handle. It is better if it is rubberized and tightly attached to the working part. The width of the working part of the tool can be from 40 to 60 centimeters (when carrying out the main work), and for filling places with difficult access, the optimal width will be from six to fifteen centimeters. If the room is small, a 40 cm wide work surface will be sufficient.

The corners are usually puttyed with an angled spatula, but certain skills are required to handle it correctly.

The task of the angled trowel is to create crisp 90 degree angles.

How to apply?

Before applying the material, the walls must be thoroughly cleaned of old paint or wallpaper. You can alleviate this unpleasant activity by using special flush products that are sold in stores along with other building materials. After washing off the walls, the room is left to dry for at least a day, after which the walls are carefully examined for small residues, which are best removed using a special assembly knife. Instead of a knife, it is allowed to use a flexible thin spatula, the main thing is that it is not putty, because it can easily be scratched or broken during such work.

After a preliminary examination of the prepared walls, you need to check their relief. This will require tools such as a plastering rule and a flashlight. The rule is applied to the wall, and the light of the lantern is directed casually towards it. This will help to identify the smallest holes and bumps, which can subsequently negatively affect the aesthetic appearance of the walls after the final finishing. The light will help you see all the minor defects, which are immediately knocked down by a plane or a spatula, which has a plastering purpose. The holes are pre-traced with a pencil along the contour of the light.

Before starting work, all tools are carefully prepared. It should be washed, dried and wiped dry with a cotton cloth. Disposable dry wipes can be used. Before using special attachments or a kneading mixer, they are carefully checked for traces of previous work.

Even the smallest pieces of old putty mixtures must be removed.

The mixing process itself is quite simple, but it requires care and accuracy. If a building bucket is used as a container, water is poured into it by one fourth, and if ordinary, for economic purposes, one third of the water will be sufficient. Only after that, the dry mixture is carefully poured into the bucket, in a trickle, until the top of the resulting slide appears from under the water. After 20-25 seconds, the slide should be saturated with water and sink, after which it should be thoroughly mixed. After mixing, you need to wait another minute and mix everything again, after which the putty will be completely ready for application.

An important point: in no case should you add water or add dry powder if the mixture is already ready. Before kneading, it is important to pay attention to how long after preparation the mixture will be suitable for work and will not dry out. It is best to make batch batch.

One portion of the application should not be very large to save material and maximize the accuracy of the work. On the spatula, you need to take the amount of the composition so that it can be applied with one stroke. Small defects are rubbed with a small or medium spatula. When grouting, the movement of the hand should be wide, and the pressure should be uniform, until the layer of the mixture is equal to the wall.

Dry the putty surfaces using drafts and, if possible, direct sunlight. "Fast-track methods" of drying with heaters and fans are not allowed. If the composition does not dry out naturally, it will warp or crack, and this usually manifests itself already during decorative finishing, which should be avoided. When airing the room, you should also not open the balcony door in order to avoid exposure to temperature extremes.

Room doors, doors to the kitchen, corridor, bathroom should be open.

The maximum time for complete drying of the putty is 10-12 hours, but the surface should be sanded no earlier than after 24 hours. During this time, the mixture will become more durable, which will ensure both ease of work in the future, and an optimally flat surface.

If the walls are processed for the purpose of gluing wallpaper, the work is first carried out with a wide spatula, applying the mixture in the form of stripes and overlapping a little (from 10 to 25%). Hold the tool at a 20-30 degree angle, with constant pressure, to obtain a layer of constant thickness - from two to four millimeters. It should be borne in mind that if the angle of inclination of the blade is less, then the layer will be thicker.

After drying the walls, the beads are removed using an abrasive tool . - the jointer, and the wall is tested again for evenness by the light from the flashlight. The bumps are also removed by abrasive, and the holes are closed with a small spatula or manually. Beginners usually cope with the work in several approaches, the purpose of which is to bring the wall flat or to zero, to use the terminology of professional craftsmen.

After the wall has been "zeroed" and dried, you will need a mesh jointer to grind the surfaces (mesh size - from 80 to 120). The more numbering the sandpaper has, the finer its grain size. The first pass along the wall is done in even circular motions, after which the swings are carried out in a cross direction to remove the circles. The wall is again tested for evenness, and if the reflections from the lantern do not go far, the process can be considered a success. After checking, the wall is dried for another day, and then it is already being pasted.

If you need to putty the walls for painting, after the main stages of puttying and bringing the walls to "zero" with grouting, it is imperative to apply the last plaster layer, which is also called the finishing layer.

When working with corners, there is the simplest method: at first, a small excess of material is left there, which, after drying, is corrected with abrasives. The corners on the slopes are worked out with an angled spatula, followed by removal with an abrasive and testing the walls for evenness.

If you need to putty the plasterboard surface after priming, you first need to glue the fiberglass mesh, and do this so that it covers the corners and joints. The seams should be exactly in the middle of the mesh. The joints between the gypsum cardboard sheets are putty sequentially with two blades: medium and wide. As with a normal wall, you should remove all the bumps and irregularities that form so that there is less hassle when sanding. A layer of the mixture is evenly applied over the entire seam and leveled with a medium spatula.

The screws are puttyed crosswise so that their caps are completely hidden.

The corners in this case will be more difficult to process. The first step is to process one side of the corner with the mixture, as usual, and when half of the seam is dry, the second side is made. Thus, the seam is neat and even. Next, you need to fix all the slopes of doors and windows with building corners on top of the putty layer. It is necessary to press the mixture into the profile holes with a small spatula so that all the slots are filled. The surface is leveled with a large and wide trowel.

The finishing putty of the plasterboard surface is also necessary .so that the wall is as flat as possible. All small defects are sanded to ensure the best adhesion of the "final" mixture. It is recommended to use a mixture containing fiberglass as a finishing filler, you can also use the same solution that was used at the start, but with the condition that the manufacturer is the same, in order to avoid problems with adhesion. The final puttying is carried out with a wide spatula, and the composition is diluted to obtain a mass similar in appearance to sour cream. This will ensure that the composition is evenly applied to the drywall.

Helpful hints

When using dry mixes, it is important to take care of purchasing a convenient container in advance. With a large volume of work, you should never use the entire mixture in one sitting, because it will simply dry out within a few hours and the master may not have time to use it for its intended purpose. For optimal and economical consumption, it is better to prepare the mixture in several stages and always pay attention to how long this or that putty option can be used. The time may vary depending on its composition.

It would seem that it is very simple to prepare a container for mixing the putty mixture ., but it is not so. The use of buckets that are too old with a large amount of residues of various mixtures adhering to the inner surface of the container is not recommended. In the process of quick mixing with a mixer or a drill attachment, solid residues of the old can get into the fresh mass, which will cause great inconvenience during work. Removing hardened pieces of old from a freshly mixed putty is an unnecessary and useless task, therefore it is better to initially make sure that the container is clean, without traces of paint or rust.

When all the work is completed, one must not forget about thoroughly rinsing all the instruments. If you do not do this right away, the dried pieces of putty will have to be “ripped off” with a knife, which can damage the spatula. You need to clean the mixture while it is wet, and wipe the cleaned tools dry - both the handle and the blade. If you still have to deal with uncleaned instruments, then in order to soften the adhering composition, you can try using a solvent, although this does not always work. In the worst case, you will either have to use a knife or buy a new device.

Too much mixture should never be taken onto the spatula . It is a mistake to think that the more putties there are, the faster all tasks will be completed. With an excess of the mixture, the quality of the coating will deteriorate significantly, the surface will become bumpy and uneven, which, of course, will create many problems in further painting or pasting the walls. Some advise "not to bother" with such subtleties, explaining this by the fact that after applying a thick layer of the mixture, you still have to "sand" everything with sandpaper, but this opinion is erroneous. Long-term sanding not only delays the working process, but also leaves on the walls those defects that will have to be smoothed over and over again, which, of course, is completely unnecessary.

It is best to work on each wall in one day so that the surface dries evenly. In case of forced breaks, the part of the wall that has dried out must be wetted with water using a sprayer, and the transition must be smoothed out with the capture of the previously wetted layer. If the surface has dried up for a long time, it should be moistened abundantly, having previously rolled it out with a roller.

If nails are found in the walls, you might involuntarily be tempted to hammer them back in as quickly as possible, or, conversely, pull them out with a spatula. In no case should this be done, because any painting spatula is a flexible and rather fragile tool. If the blade is damaged, further work will be simply impossible. When working with "problem" walls, it is better to always have an additional "arsenal" of tools with you - like a hammer or nail puller. If the nail is not pulled out or the master has decided that it would be better to hammer it into the wall, one must not forget about careful filling of the caps with a small spatula.

It is not recommended to purchase too cheap tool kits , even if they are rarely used in the future. The so-called "disposable" blades often break or their working surface is covered with scratches already in the first hours of the process, which will negatively affect the surface quality. It is best to buy a set at a trusted hardware store or purchase everything you need separately, without being fooled by a cheap price.

Carrying out putty work with your own hands for the first time is troublesome, but interesting, especially if you have the opportunity to consult with a more experienced craftsman who can give valuable practical advice in the process. If a novice master has enough patience and perseverance in achieving this goal, everything will definitely work out.